Subcategories

• 

  Harnesses

  Harnesses

  The climbing harness is one of the essentials when you look at buying gear for climbing. It adds the necessary safety to your climb for any type of climbing..........sports, indoor, alpine or via ferrata. 

  One big difference in harnesses is the weight of the product and also the comfort. Some are more adjustable than others and some can carry more gear than others. So don't just buy a harness because of the price but rather really look in to what your needs are and what you plan to do with it. 

  Let's have a look at the anatomy of a harness:

  

  Here we have the classic sports climbing harness (Selena by Petzl). What are the different technical aspects to watch out for?

  1. Waist belt:

  Most manufacturers look to provide maximal comfort in this area with minimal weight. Mostly adjustable by 1 or 2 buckles.

  2. Belay loop:

  Mostly belay loops are made of super robust nylon. They are the strongest part of a climbing harness and they are the only part that is load tested. Anything hard like the locking carabiner when belaying should be tied to the belay loop whereas things like slings should be avoided as they will make the loop wear off quicker through friction. 

  3. Gear loop:

  Gear loops are designed to carry equipment (such as quickdraws). Most harnesses have 4 gear loops, but specialized one might have additional loops to carry even more gear. Gear loops are mostly made from plastic and/or webbing. Some harnesses even feature removable plastic gear loops that allow you to personalize it even more. These loops are never intended to be clipped into as a piece of protection at an anchor.

  4. Leg loop:

  They are padded for comfort and sometimes feature buckles to be able to adjust them depending on clothing choice. They are made from a variety of materials.

  5. Cross-Piece:

  This webbing connects the two leg loops to the front of the harness. The cross piece is adjustable and you can move the small buckle until you get the right fit.

  6. Tie-in loops:

  They connect to the belay loop and are not strength tested, yet independent studies show that they can withstand 12-14 kN before breaking. Any cord, rope or webbing should be attached through both the lower and upper tie–in points to properly distribute the wear. Do not belay or rappel with your carabiner attached through the 2 tie–in points—this weakens the strength of the carabiner; use the belay loop instead.

  7. Buckle

  They consist of 2 pieces of metal and are mostly a bit off–centre to avoid conflict with rope tie–in. A harness must have a buckle for the waist belt but does not necessarily need buckles on the leg loops.

  8. Haul loop:

  Located on the back of the harness, this loop of stitched webbing is used to attach a second rope or haul line. Warning: It’s not intended to be load bearing or clipped into for a piece of protection.

  Types of harnesses

  There are different types of harnesses for the different types of climbing out there. Harnesses come from lots of brands. Some are better for sport climbing, some for alpine climbing and some for traditional climbing, so not every harness is the same.

  Sport or gym harnesses: Stripped down for fast, ultralight travel, whether indoors in the gym or on outdoor sport routes.

  Typical features:

  • Single automatic or double–back waist belt buckle: Quick and easy to get on and off.
  • 2 gear loops: since minimal gear is needed.
  • Thin belay loop: makes it lighter
  • Minimal leg adjustability: sometimes none at all to minimize weight, instead they use material that will stretch and give.

  Traditional (trad) harnesses: A trad harness maximizes space since a lot more gear is required than in sports climbing, while being relatively light and comfortable.

  Typical features:

  • Adjustable leg loops with buckles
  • 4 or more gear loops: for lots of gear.
  • Thick and durable padding: Increases comfort when spending a long time in the harness 
  • Extra lumbar padding: to stabilize the lower back and waist.
  • Haul loop: For carrying up a second rope

  Ice and mixed harnesses: Like the trad harnesses but designed to cope with winter conditions.

  Typical features:

  • Adjustable leg loops using buckles: Fully adjustable to fit over winter clothing.
  • 4 or more gear loops: for lots of gear like ice axe
  • Extra lumbar padding: to stabilize the lower back and waist.
  • Haul loop: For carrying up a second rope

  Alpine/mountaineering harnesses: Lightweight, adjustable leg loops for easy on and off.

  Typical features:

  • Fully adjustable leg loops and waist belt
  • 4 or fewer gear loops
  • Thin material: Thin material allows for a smaller and more compact harness that might not necessarily be worn the entire day.
  • Thin belay loop: Saves weight
  • Haul loop: For carrying up a second rope.

  Women's Harnesses

  You have specific harnesses for women and kids which are ergonomically right designed for their needs. 

  Women–specific aspects include:

  • Shaped waist belt.
  • Increased rise.
  • Reduction in the leg–to–waist ratio.

  Kid's Harnesses

  A kids harness generally shares many features with that of an adult, the only difference is that they are build to accommodate a child’s physique.

  Young children, usually 5 years and under, have a relatively high centre of gravity (larger head–to–torso ratio) and should be equipped with a full–body harness. This type of harness is considered a type B harness and is designed for weights up to 40Kg (88 lbs.). A sit harness is recommended once the kid's centre of gravity lowers.

  How to Fit and Test a Climbing Harness

  Fit:

  1. Loosen the straps for leg loops and waist loop.
  2. Step into the harness. Make sure none of the leg/belay loops are twisted or crossing. The belay loop should face the front of the harness.
  3. Pull the waist belt just above your hip (belly button height) to ensure that you will not accidentally slip out of the harness in the event you fall upside down. 
  4. Adjust the leg loops, if possible. Some harnesses do not have adjustable leg loops and use a piece of elastic to allow the leg loop to stretch.
  5. The placement of leg loops is not as important as the placement of the waist belt; it is based more on comfort.
  6. Tighter leg loops give the climber more comfortable when hanging freely, although range of movement can be restricted. On the other hand,, loos leg loops provide more mobility but are not as comfortable to dead–hang in. In any case the harness is safe, so everyone must make the personal call on comfort.
  7. Finally, make sure the buckles on each loop are doubled back. You are now ready to test your harness.

  Test:

  1. A harness can only be tested when hanging in it. When the harness is weighted, it should feel relatively comfortable and be easy to sit upright (like a chair).
  2. There shouldn't be any points of pressure where the there's a feeling of the harness digging in the skin.
  3. The waist belt should feel comfortable and not move around too much.You can also test for shifting by trying to pull the waist belt down over the hips. You should not be able to. 

  Harness standards:

  All harnesses must be submitted for stringent testing to satisfy the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA 105) or the European Committee for Standardization (EN 1277). Both of these are independent testing groups that help ensure quality standards among a variety of products.

  Harnesses are categorized and defined by their shape and use. All climbing harnesses that consist of a waistbelt and 2 leg loops are classified as a Type C sit harness. On a Type C sit harness, the belay loop is tested to 15kN. A full–body harness that is child–specific is considered a Type B small–body harness and is designed for weights ≤ 40 Kg (≤ 88 lbs.). A Type B small–body harness’ tie–in points must be rated to a minimum of 10kN (2,240 lbs.).

  The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs. 

  Shop online.........more time to climb.

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  Ropes

  How to choose a climbing rope?

  When going out to by a climbing rope there are four main features to consider:

  - What type of rope do you need?

  - What diameter and length should the rope have?

  - What features should the rope provide?

  - What safety certification should the rope have?

  All of these entirely depend on what you need the rope for? Are you going mountaineering? Indoor climbing? Multi-pitch? Etc.

  Type of rope

  There are three main differences in rope types designed for climbing: single, half, and twin ropes. Furthermore, a difference is made between static and dynamic ropes. In climbing, static ropes are only used when lowering an injured climber or ascending a rope. They are not designed, certified or tested to climb on because they stretch very little, that's what dynamic ropes are made for. 

  Single Ropes:

  Most people tend to buy single ropes because they come in many different diameters and lengths, making them super versatile in their use. A single rope is a rope that is not to be used in combination with any other rope but by itself, like the name suggests. It's important to only use a rope as it was designed and tested to be used. Some single ropes can be used as twin or half rope too if this is specified by the manufacturer.

  Single ropes are marked with a circled 1 on each end of the rope.

  Single ropes, like previously mentioned are very versatile, and tend to be best for trad climbing, sport climbing, big-wall climbing and top roping.

  Half Ropes:

  When using half ropes, you climb with two ropes. As you ascend, clip one rope to protection on the left and the other to protection on the right. This allows the ropes to run parallel and straight, thereby reducing rope drag on wandering routes. Half ropes are ideal for trad climbing on wandering multi-pitch rock routes, mountaineering and ice climbing. They do have their positive and negative sides. What is good about them is the reduced rope drag on wandering routes; two ropes can rappelle further than 1 rope; if one rope gets damaged you still have a second one. The downside to this style is first of all more weight, since you are carrying two ropes; and the handling of 2 half ropes is harder than that of a single rope. It's important to only use a rope the way it was designed and tested to be used.

  Half ropes are marked with a circled ½ symbol on each end.

  Half ropes are best for trad climbing on wandering multi-pitch rock routes, mountaineering and ice climbing.

  Twin Ropes:

  Just like half ropes, twin ropes require a two-rope system. Twin ropes however have more drag due to the fact that you always have to clip both strands through each piece of protection, just like you would on a single rope. This component makes the twin-rope system ideal for non-wondering routes. Furthermore, compared to half ropes, twin ropes tend to be lighter because they are a bit thinner. As for the advantages and disadvantages of this system compared to a single rope they are the same as for a half rope. On one hand, two ropes can rappelle further than 1 rope and if one rope gets damaged you still have a second one. On the other hand, two ropes are heavier than one and working with two ropes is more complicated than with one. Just as with half ropes, twin ropes are designed and tested only for use as a matching pair; don’t mix sizes or brands. 

  Twin ropes have a circled infinity symbol (∞) on each end.

  Twin ropes are best for trad climbing on non-wandering multi-pitch rock routes, mountaineering and ice climbing.

  Static Ropes:

  They are not meant for sports climbing but rather for rescue work, caving, climbing fixed lines with ascenders and hauling loads. Static ropes are amazing when you are in a situation where you do not want the rope to stretch, like when injured climber needs to be lowered, hauling equipment up wit a rope or when ascending a rope. 

  Climbing rope diameter:

  The rope diameter of a rope can vary quiet a bit and can make a huge difference on your climbing experience. Thinner ropes for example have the advantage of being lighter than thicker ropes but at the same time they are not as robust and need more skill when belaying with them. So depending on wether you are top roping in your local gym/crag or going for long distance multi-pitches you'll want something completely different.

  Static ropes have a diameter of about 9-13 mm. 

  Half ropes have a diameter of about 8-9 mm.

  Twin ropes have a diameter of about 7-8 mm.

  Single ropes have more uses to them so the sizes vary a bit more:

  up to 9.4 mm are ideal for long multi-pitches due to their reduced weight.

  9.5 - 9.9 mm are good allrounders, they are light enough for a trip to the mountains and yet robust enough for repeated indoor use

  10 mm and above are ideal to use in the gym, when figuring out the moves and making repeated falls

  Rope length:

  In sports climbing the average rope length is about 60m but the range goes from 30m-80m for a single rope. The only thing you need to "watch out" for is that the rope is at least twice as long as the route you are attempting because you obviously have to get back down. Generally indoor ropes are no longer than 40m since the routes are generally quiet short (15m) compared to outdoor routes (30m) where you could need up to 80m.

  Rope features:

  When comparing ropes these are some features to look for:

  • Dry treatment is designed to reduce the ropes water absorption. While a rope is wet it becomes less resistant to falls, and if it should freeze, the rope becomes very hard to handle. Dry treatment is important should you plan on ice climbing for example. 
  • Middle Mark is a black dye mark half way of the rope to indicate that you have half of the length left.
  • End warning marks are shown on some ropes when approaching the end of the rope

  Safety:

  The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) is the international mountaineering and climbing federation that creates safety standards to which all climbing ropes must adhere. These are the criteria that make a climbing rope fit for sports use.

  The Fall rating is determined to identify how many falls a rope can take before failing. This is being determined differently for different rope types. All single ropes and half ropes must withstand a minimum of 5 UIAA falls. Twin ropes must withstand a minimum of 12 UIAA falls. This might not seem like a lot but the falls in the tests are much greater than in actual climbing. 

  Static elongation, is the amount a dynamic rope stretches with an 80kg attached to it. In general the elongation on single and twin ropes can't be more than 10% of total rope length and half ropes 12%

  Dynamic elongation is the distance the rope stretches during the first UIAA fall and cannot exceed 40% of total rope length. 

  The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs. 

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  Helmets

  How to Choose A Climbing Helmet?

  Wearing a climbing helmet is an important part of keeping yourself protected at the crag, wether your climbing or belaying. A helmet will protect you from rocks falling down on you, you falling down and hitting the rock or banging your head in the overhang. When getting a helmet there are three main things to consider, helmet type, type of climbing you do and getting the right fit. 

  All helmets must meet industry standards for impact protection, with the standard for overhead protection being greater than the side-protection standard.

  Climbing Helmet Type

  Hardshell Helmets are durable and have an extra hard outer shell usually made of ABS plastic giving them a long lifespan compared to other helmets. They feature a thin foam layer inside and a strap suspension system and are therefor sometimes called hybrid helmets or suspension helmets.

  Shelled Foam Helmets are lighter and feature a thick layer of impact-absorbing polystyrene or polypropylene foam protected by a thin polycarbonate shell. This type of helmet has the advantage of being super light and having great ventilation. 

  	hardshell helmet	shelled foam helmet
  Mountaineering and multi-pitch trad climbing		X
  Ice climbing		X
  Warm-weather sport climbing		X
  Cool-weather and single-pitch sport climbing	X	X
  Belaying	X
  Indoor climbing	X	X

  Climbing Helmet Fit

  Even when friends or reviewers suggest that one helmet is the best, it won't be right for you if it doesn't fit correctly. The best way to assess fit is to try on different helmets in a climbing specialty store.

  • Check for a secure fit
  • Check and adjust chin straps
  • Check the ease of adjustment

  Climbing Helmet Lifespan

  You should retire any helmet that’s dented, cracked or damaged—that includes the straps. You should even retire your helmet if you can't see any damage but had an incident where you thought to yourself, "I would have been seriously messed up if not for my helmet."

  Even if it’s never impacted, retire a helmet within 10 years. The sun’s UV rays slowly degrade materials, so if you climb frequently, cut this lifespan time in half.

  The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs. 

  Shop online.........more time to climb.

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  Via Ferrata Gear

  What Gear Do I Need to Climb a Via Ferrata?

  Via Ferrata is an awesome sport that involves descending, ascending or climbing across a rocky surface using a system of iron ropes, steps, and fixtures. It’s a great way to experience the world of climbing in a more controlled way. It also gives you access to really interesting terrain that you might not normally be able to reach.

  Via Ferrata Set

  In general, a via ferrata set consists of two energy-absorbing lanyards that are connected and have carabiners attached to their ends. Those are the carabiners you need to secure yourself with to the iron rope and other fixtures that are attached to the mountain.

  Climbing Harness

  There are several kinds of harnesses out there yet the one best suited for via ferrata is the sports climbing harness. It’s a comfortable harness for most people. The only time you should consider a different harness is when carrying heavy loads, thats when you need a full-body harness. 

  When choosing a harness remember that it should always fit comfortably and snuggly, never too tight or too loose. The leg loops should be adjustable too.

  Climbing Helmet

  For safety reasons the helmet cannot be missing in your set, it is not unusual for small stones to drop and you don't want them hitting your head. 

  Again, your helmet should fit comfortably and it should be one that has been designed specifically for climbing.

  Gloves

  First consider that you might be wearing those gloves for a long time so make sure to choose a lightweight and breathable pair. A lot of friction is created when pushing that carabiner up and down the rope so gloves are a must if you don't want your hands to be too sore at the end of the day.

  Clothing and Footwear

  Let's start with the footwear, sneakers are not going to do the job. The mountain you will be climbing is probably uneven and steep at times so you will need to invest in some decent boots.

  As for clothes it completely depends on the location your travelling too, but some lightweight breathable clothes are always good to have.

  Backpack

  While it is not climbing gear you need to carry around you are still going to need some basics and therefor a good backpack is essential. Since a via ferrata is a one way street, there is no turning back for snacks and water, you will need to pack all of that yourself. 

  First Aid Kit

  Finally, since you are walking around an area of sharp edges and sometimes unstable footholds a first aid kit should not be missing in your backpack. Any basic kit should do the job.

  The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs. 

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  Carabiners & Quickdraws

  How to Choose Quickdraws

  When you are out shopping for quickdraws there are several things to look out for. The three basic questions you need to ask yourself are first of all, how many quickdraws do I need? Second, ask yourself what gate opening you need/prefer. And finally you need to decide on the length of the sling. More advanced climbers know that there is a bit more to it, like carabiner size&shape or sling material&width and of course weight strength ratio. 

  How many quickdraws do I need?

  That depends entirely on the length of the route you are climbing and wether it is quiet straight or not. Furthermore, when a guidebook lists the number of bolts on a route, that’s also your quickdraw total but you always want 1 or 2 extra just in case. And consider that if you use quickdraws to build your anchor you'll need those extra to the bolts.

  average sport route (15m)	12 quickdraws
  longer sport routes (30m)	16-18 quickdraws
  sport routes 35m+	24+ quickdraws
  Routes requiring a 70m rope or longer	12+ quickdraws

  What gate opening do I need?

  The 3 main gate openings on quickdraws are:

   - straight gate: solid straight gates that are easy to operate

   - bent gate:  concave gate that makes clipping a rope quick and easy

   - wire gate: loop of stainless-steel wire for a gate decreasing overall weight 

  Also watch out for the keylock system, a system which keeps the carabiner from hooking and catching on your harness gear loop and other annoying places, by giving it a smooth notch at the point where gate and carabiner interact. 

   it can be found on some straight&bent gate openings. You will most likely pay a little extra for this but it's worth it.

   Wire gate are always non keylock quickdraws.

  What sling length do I need?

  Another thing climbers consider when buying quickdraws is the length of the sling. Sport climbers tend to buy pre-made slings whereas alpinists tend to compose them themselves. Short slings are light but long slings are good at reducing drag.

  When the route is pretty straight it is best to use shorter slings for reduced weight, between 10-12 cm. 

  When the route is not traveling in a straight path and/or more than 12 quickdraws are required, climbers tend to choose a sling between 17 and 18 cm long. 

  In general for sports climbing it is beneficial to have a variety of lengths with you because the route might develop differently than planned.

  Trad climbers usually build their own quickdraws by taking a 60cm or longer sewn sling and clipping two carabiners of choice to the sling.

  What else do experienced climbers look for in quickdraws?

  • carabiner size - the smaller, the lighter but also more difficult to clip
  • carabiner shape - affects the ease of use depending on hand size
  • carabiner gate open clearance - affects the ease of use, too small can cause fingers to get stuck while too big can complicate clipping
  • overall weight - saving weight can give you an advantage on long climbs
  • sling material - depending on material, different weight
  • sling width - Skinnier slings are lighter, but they also tend to be a bit harder to handle than a wider sling. Also affects overall weight
  • carabiner strength - the stronger, the better. Consider everything else first and then choose the strongest carabiner that fits.

  How to Choose Carabiners

  Just like with quickdraws, there are certain things to consider when shopping for carbiners. Different tasks require different tools and the three main categories to consider would be the shape, gate opening and weight/strength.

  Shape	Pro	Con
  D shape carabiner	Strongest shape Larger gate opening than Oval Shape	Smaller gate opening than Asymmetric D Heavier than Asymmetric D More expensive than Oval Shape
  Asymmetric D Carabiner	Large gate opening Strong and light	More expensive  Not as strong as D Shape
  Pear Shape	Large gate opening Designed for belaying and rappelling	Heavier and more expensive than most other carabiners Not as strong as D & Asymmetric D shape
  Oval Shape	Limits load shifting Can hold more gear than D Shape	Not as strong as other shapes Smaller gate opening than other shapes Heavier than other shapes

  The Gate openings are the same here as they were with the quickdraws. Main categories to look out for are straight, bend or wiregate carabiners. 

  gate opening	pro	con
  straight	durable and easy to use available with keylock system	heavier than wiregate
  bent	clipping rope is easier durable available with keylock system	heavier than wiregate
  wire	lightweight reduce gate lash less likely to freeze shut	less durable than straight&bent gate

  Carabiner Size, Weight and Strength

  SIZE: Carabiners exist in lots of different sizes, the bigger they are the easier it is to clip because the opening is generally bigger. Smaller carabiners have the advantage of being lighter.

  Weight: Generally the lighter the carabiner the better because you want to minimise the load you have to carry up the route/mountain. But as previously mentioned, light carabiners are usually smaller and harder to handle.

  Strength: Carabiners are rated for strength in three directions: lengthwise (major axis), sideways (minor axis) and while open (major axis open or "gate open").

  Which Carabiner To Use

  First think about what you will be using the carabiner for. Now that you know about the technical aspects of the carabiner it is time to choose one that fits your needs. This might help:

  Belaying and rappelling pear-shape locking carabiner
  Sport-climbing quickdraws Asymmetric D carabiners with straight gates, bent gates and/or wiregates
  Trad-climbing quickdraws Asymmetric D carabiners with wiregates

   

  The choices are endless and difficult today so ideally come down to Casper's Climbing shop to get a feel for this gear and get some more advice. Also, you can contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs. 

  Shop online.........more time to climb.

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  Belay Devices &...

  How to choose the right belay device for you?

  There are several different belay devices out there. We divided them up in 3 main categories, tubular, figure eight and assisted breaking. 

  These systems all work in a similar way, it is thanks to the friction between the device and the climbing rope that they are able to brake a fall.

  Tubular belay devices

  These are very versatile devices and hence are suited for any kind of climbing be it trad, sport or indoor. Operating them is quiet simple, you just fold the rope, push it through and use a carabiner to either clip it to the belayer or the anchor. The friction caused between the bend rope and belay device helps slow down or stop the rope. Furthermore, when it is time to rappel, most tubular devices allow for a second strand of rope.

  pro	con
  - light weight	- some people (lightweight) find rappelling really slow
  - compatible with most ropes
  - ropes don't twist or kink
  - rappelling on two strands

  Figure 8 belay devices

  This device is best suited for search and rescue, caving and rappelling. Shaped like an 8, they have one larger and one smaller opening. When rappelling, you feed a bight of rope through the large hole and loop it around the outside of the small hole till it rests on the "neck" of the figure 8. The small hole is clipped to your belay loop on your harness. For belaying, different ways to rig the rope through the device are recommended. Read the instructions included with your figure 8 to learn the proper way to set it up.

  pro	con
  - great for rappelling	- requires more force and attention from the belayer than other devices
  - eliminates heat caused from friction	- twist the rope which can cause difficulty in the handling.
  - compatible with any rope diameter

  Assisted breaking belay devices

  These, like the name suggests, are designed to lock down on the rope in case a sudden force is applied to them, thereby helping the belayer catch the fall. These devices are also sometimes called self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking devices and there are differences to be made.

  For example, some devices will provide assisted breaking whether you’re belaying a lead climber, top-rope climber or a follower on a multipitch climb. Many of them use an internal camming mechanism to lock down on the rope when a climber falls. Compared to other devices they tend to be heavier and usually only work with a single line, which is why they are mainly used for sport climbing, either outdoors or indoors.

  Other devices that will only assist braking for belaying one or two followers are usually tubular belay devices with an additional metal loop on the inside. This one is needed to attach the device to the anchor and set it up in assisted-braking mode. These devices have the same advantages/disadvantages than a normal tubular device while providing the possibility of belaying 1 or 2 followers in assisted braking mode. As with any belay device, assisted-braking devices require that you always use proper belay technique and have your brake hand ready to lock off the rope

  pro	con
  - help stop the climbers fall	- Don’t work with all diameters of rope
  - rope feed is smooth	- heavy
  - easy to lower the climber in a controlled manner	- some only allow rappelling on a single strand
  	- not recommended for use with wet or icy ropes

  The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs. 

  Shop online.........more time to climb.

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  Slings & Lanyards

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  Bigwall & Trad Climbing

  The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs. 

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  Climbing Accessories

  The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs. 

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  Water Bottles

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  Headlamps