There is no fix list of things you need to go climbing. Back in the days they almost had no gear but of course this has changed. Today the choice of brands and models are endless, it has become a gear freak’s paradise. We at Casper’s Climbing Shop feel that climbing can be divided in to four cat...
There is no fix list of things you need to go climbing. Back in the days they almost had no gear but of course this has changed. Today the choice of brands and models are endless, it has become a gear freak’s paradise. We at Casper’s Climbing Shop feel that climbing can be divided in to four categories: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Mountaineering and Via Ferrata.
Boulderers can generally get by with climbing shoes, chalk, chalkbag and a crashpad.
Sport climbers need to add a harness, rope, quickdraws, carabiners, belay device, climbing helmet and maybe other items e.g. a few cams or nuts.
Mountaineers need a lot of different products even for the easiest routes and here the choice is endless. It can range from crampons and ice axe to the right clothing and bivouac equipment.
Via Ferrata is often under estimated as it seems easy and a perfect activity for a family holiday. Here there is also a large choice of products which will make your trip safer and more fun.
Whether you are planning a relaxing bouldering holiday or a challenging tour in mountain terrain you will find the right climbing gear for every purpose, every level and every budget in our climbing shop. We started with only a few brands to which more have been added over time. A list of some of our brands include: E9, Petzl, Black Diamond, La Sportiva, Edelrid, Five Ten, Evolv, Metolius, Wild Country, Moon Climbing, Sterling Rope, Beal, Scarpa and many more.
As previously mentioned a boulderer doesn't need much equipment, barely any, which is why bouldering is considered by some people to be the purest form of climbing. It's the isolation of single hard moves that makes it ideal to work on hard sequences or on personal weaknesses. There's just you vs the rock, no rope keeping you safe, no clipps holding you on the wall, just you, your shoes fingers and pad. Others see bouldering as a training method towards rope climbing but it has established itself as a completely independent discipline and a unique set of equipment has emerged accordingly.
The probably most important piece of gear in bouldering are the shoes. The way bouldering developed and transformed itself to become this insane sport it is now requires very specific equipment, and the shoes help you use your feet as hands. Hard rubber vs soft rubber, asymmetric vs straight, with/without support, laces vs velcro, Vibram edge vs grip etc. These are all aspects that play a massive role in your bouldering game. They should fit perfectly, offer good grip and allow a good feel for the rock.
The next most important thing when bouldering is the crash pad because after all it's what prevents impact with the ground in case of a fall. There are lots of different style pads out there, size matters, material and shockabsoarb system, carry system, thickness etc. Depending on where you go bouldering you will need to watch out for different features that could make your trip a lot more comfortable.
Finally, you will need some chalk to complete your boulder kit. Any boulder chalk bag will do the job.
In addition to what a boulderer needs, a sports climber at least requires a rope, quickdraws, a belay device and a helmet to safely practice his/her sport.
When it comes to ropes most climbers get by with a single rope, which is whats needed in gyms and outdoor if you do a simple single pitch. You get the ropes in different diameters, different lengths and material. Make sure to have a look at the routes you plan on attempting, Topos will generally inform you on how long the route is which is crucial to know when choosing your rope length. Remember if the wall is 20m high you'll need 20m to get up and an extra 20m to come down, so a 40m rope would do the job, but a 50m rope is probably the safer choice.
Quickdraws too have many different characteristics that need to be considered before a purchase/climb. The length of the sling can vary, the gate opening and closing system of the carabiners. Here again it is best to have a good look at the routes you plan on climbing and come down to the shop where we can help you with further information.
When it comes to belay devices the choices seem endless but the main categories to consider are "assisted breaking" "semi assisted breaking" or "non assisted breaking" devices. Depending on what climb you're attempting and your level of experience different devices would be recommended. Again, analyse the routes you plan on climbing and come down to the shop where we can discuss in detail whats best suited for you.
The climbing helmet is self explanatory. Everyone should be wearing one although a lot of people don't. This is a personal decision but just keep in mind that the rock is not picky, pro, novice or just spectator, when a rock gets loose and falls down it can hit anyone and cause severe injuries. Some of the climbing helmets have even been designed to be approved as cycling helmet so you can get two birds with one stone.
This category includes ice climbing, securing your own routes and anything that is not sports climbing or bouldering.
Sometimes routes are not bolted all the way or not at all. In those cases you need some extra equipment to be able to secure yourself on the way up. This type of climbing is called trad climbing or clean climbing because you don't leave a trace of your route on the rock. This type of climbing is very popular in the UK. This type of climbing requires the athlete to carry nuts and cams which are the tools that anchor him/her to the rock for the time being.
When it comes to ice climbing, selecting your gear becomes a real science and the climb itself a material arms race. When on long high alpine tours you never know what conditions you'll encounter so you need climbing equipment for every eventuality with you. That means a full set of mountain climbing equipment plus full ice climbing gear, that is a lot to carry so good backpacks are a must too.
The most important thing in rock climbing is to be aware and informed of what you do. What style do you plan on climbing, then analyse the single routes you'd like to try, are they single pitch or multi pitch, how high are they, how long, how many bolts needed, are there bolts etc. Take note of all these aspects and come down to our shop where we can further discuss and try out what the ideal equipment for your climb is.
We are constantly adding to our range of products so we can propose all the right gear you will need during your climbing.
The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
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Subcategories
The climbing harness is one of the essentials when you look at buying gear for climbing. It adds the necessary safety to your climb for any type of climbing..........sports, indoor, alpine or via ferrata.
One big difference in harnesses is the weight of the product and also the comfort. Some are more adjustable than others and some can carry more gear than others. So don't just buy a harness because of the price but rather really look in to what your needs are and what you plan to do with it.
Let's have a look at the anatomy of a harness:
Here we have the classic sports climbing harness (Selena by Petzl). What are the different technical aspects to watch out for?
1. Waist belt:
Most manufacturers look to provide maximal comfort in this area with minimal weight. Mostly adjustable by 1 or 2 buckles.
2. Belay loop:
Mostly belay loops are made of super robust nylon. They are the strongest part of a climbing harness and they are the only part that is load tested. Anything hard like the locking carabiner when belaying should be tied to the belay loop whereas things like slings should be avoided as they will make the loop wear off quicker through friction.
3. Gear loop:
Gear loops are designed to carry equipment (such as quickdraws). Most harnesses have 4 gear loops, but specialized one might have additional loops to carry even more gear. Gear loops are mostly made from plastic and/or webbing. Some harnesses even feature removable plastic gear loops that allow you to personalize it even more. These loops are never intended to be clipped into as a piece of protection at an anchor.
4. Leg loop:
They are padded for comfort and sometimes feature buckles to be able to adjust them depending on clothing choice. They are made from a variety of materials.
5. Cross-Piece:
This webbing connects the two leg loops to the front of the harness. The cross piece is adjustable and you can move the small buckle until you get the right fit.
6. Tie-in loops:
They connect to the belay loop and are not strength tested, yet independent studies show that they can withstand 12-14 kN before breaking. Any cord, rope or webbing should be attached through both the lower and upper tie–in points to properly distribute the wear. Do not belay or rappel with your carabiner attached through the 2 tie–in points—this weakens the strength of the carabiner; use the belay loop instead.
7. Buckle
They consist of 2 pieces of metal and are mostly a bit off–centre to avoid conflict with rope tie–in. A harness must have a buckle for the waist belt but does not necessarily need buckles on the leg loops.
8. Haul loop:
Located on the back of the harness, this loop of stitched webbing is used to attach a second rope or haul line. Warning: It’s not intended to be load bearing or clipped into for a piece of protection.
Types of harnesses
There are different types of harnesses for the different types of climbing out there. Harnesses come from lots of brands. Some are better for sport climbing, some for alpine climbing and some for traditional climbing, so not every harness is the same.
Sport or gym harnesses: Stripped down for fast, ultralight travel, whether indoors in the gym or on outdoor sport routes.
Typical features:
Traditional (trad) harnesses: A trad harness maximizes space since a lot more gear is required than in sports climbing, while being relatively light and comfortable.
Typical features:
Ice and mixed harnesses: Like the trad harnesses but designed to cope with winter conditions.
Typical features:
Alpine/mountaineering harnesses: Lightweight, adjustable leg loops for easy on and off.
Typical features:
Women's Harnesses
You have specific harnesses for women and kids which are ergonomically right designed for their needs.
Women–specific aspects include:
Kid's Harnesses
A kids harness generally shares many features with that of an adult, the only difference is that they are build to accommodate a child’s physique.
Young children, usually 5 years and under, have a relatively high centre of gravity (larger head–to–torso ratio) and should be equipped with a full–body harness. This type of harness is considered a type B harness and is designed for weights up to 40Kg (88 lbs.). A sit harness is recommended once the kid's centre of gravity lowers.
Fit:
Test:
Harness standards:
All harnesses must be submitted for stringent testing to satisfy the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA 105) or the European Committee for Standardization (EN 1277). Both of these are independent testing groups that help ensure quality standards among a variety of products.
Harnesses are categorized and defined by their shape and use. All climbing harnesses that consist of a waistbelt and 2 leg loops are classified as a Type C sit harness. On a Type C sit harness, the belay loop is tested to 15kN. A full–body harness that is child–specific is considered a Type B small–body harness and is designed for weights ≤ 40 Kg (≤ 88 lbs.). A Type B small–body harness’ tie–in points must be rated to a minimum of 10kN (2,240 lbs.).
The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
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When going out to by a climbing rope there are four main features to consider:
- What type of rope do you need?
- What diameter and length should the rope have?
- What features should the rope provide?
- What safety certification should the rope have?
All of these entirely depend on what you need the rope for? Are you going mountaineering? Indoor climbing? Multi-pitch? Etc.
There are three main differences in rope types designed for climbing: single, half, and twin ropes. Furthermore, a difference is made between static and dynamic ropes. In climbing, static ropes are only used when lowering an injured climber or ascending a rope. They are not designed, certified or tested to climb on because they stretch very little, that's what dynamic ropes are made for.
Single Ropes:
Most people tend to buy single ropes because they come in many different diameters and lengths, making them super versatile in their use. A single rope is a rope that is not to be used in combination with any other rope but by itself, like the name suggests. It's important to only use a rope as it was designed and tested to be used. Some single ropes can be used as twin or half rope too if this is specified by the manufacturer.
Single ropes are marked with a circled 1 on each end of the rope.
Single ropes, like previously mentioned are very versatile, and tend to be best for trad climbing, sport climbing, big-wall climbing and top roping.
Half Ropes:
When using half ropes, you climb with two ropes. As you ascend, clip one rope to protection on the left and the other to protection on the right. This allows the ropes to run parallel and straight, thereby reducing rope drag on wandering routes. Half ropes are ideal for trad climbing on wandering multi-pitch rock routes, mountaineering and ice climbing. They do have their positive and negative sides. What is good about them is the reduced rope drag on wandering routes; two ropes can rappelle further than 1 rope; if one rope gets damaged you still have a second one. The downside to this style is first of all more weight, since you are carrying two ropes; and the handling of 2 half ropes is harder than that of a single rope. It's important to only use a rope the way it was designed and tested to be used.
Half ropes are marked with a circled ½ symbol on each end.
Half ropes are best for trad climbing on wandering multi-pitch rock routes, mountaineering and ice climbing.
Just like half ropes, twin ropes require a two-rope system. Twin ropes however have more drag due to the fact that you always have to clip both strands through each piece of protection, just like you would on a single rope. This component makes the twin-rope system ideal for non-wondering routes. Furthermore, compared to half ropes, twin ropes tend to be lighter because they are a bit thinner. As for the advantages and disadvantages of this system compared to a single rope they are the same as for a half rope. On one hand, two ropes can rappelle further than 1 rope and if one rope gets damaged you still have a second one. On the other hand, two ropes are heavier than one and working with two ropes is more complicated than with one. Just as with half ropes, twin ropes are designed and tested only for use as a matching pair; don’t mix sizes or brands.
Twin ropes have a circled infinity symbol (∞) on each end.
Twin ropes are best for trad climbing on non-wandering multi-pitch rock routes, mountaineering and ice climbing.
They are not meant for sports climbing but rather for rescue work, caving, climbing fixed lines with ascenders and hauling loads. Static ropes are amazing when you are in a situation where you do not want the rope to stretch, like when injured climber needs to be lowered, hauling equipment up wit a rope or when ascending a rope.
The rope diameter of a rope can vary quiet a bit and can make a huge difference on your climbing experience. Thinner ropes for example have the advantage of being lighter than thicker ropes but at the same time they are not as robust and need more skill when belaying with them. So depending on wether you are top roping in your local gym/crag or going for long distance multi-pitches you'll want something completely different.
Static ropes have a diameter of about 9-13 mm.
Half ropes have a diameter of about 8-9 mm.
Twin ropes have a diameter of about 7-8 mm.
Single ropes have more uses to them so the sizes vary a bit more:
up to 9.4 mm are ideal for long multi-pitches due to their reduced weight.
9.5 - 9.9 mm are good allrounders, they are light enough for a trip to the mountains and yet robust enough for repeated indoor use
10 mm and above are ideal to use in the gym, when figuring out the moves and making repeated falls
In sports climbing the average rope length is about 60m but the range goes from 30m-80m for a single rope. The only thing you need to "watch out" for is that the rope is at least twice as long as the route you are attempting because you obviously have to get back down. Generally indoor ropes are no longer than 40m since the routes are generally quiet short (15m) compared to outdoor routes (30m) where you could need up to 80m.
When comparing ropes these are some features to look for:
The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) is the international mountaineering and climbing federation that creates safety standards to which all climbing ropes must adhere. These are the criteria that make a climbing rope fit for sports use.
The Fall rating is determined to identify how many falls a rope can take before failing. This is being determined differently for different rope types. All single ropes and half ropes must withstand a minimum of 5 UIAA falls. Twin ropes must withstand a minimum of 12 UIAA falls. This might not seem like a lot but the falls in the tests are much greater than in actual climbing.
Static elongation, is the amount a dynamic rope stretches with an 80kg attached to it. In general the elongation on single and twin ropes can't be more than 10% of total rope length and half ropes 12%
Dynamic elongation is the distance the rope stretches during the first UIAA fall and cannot exceed 40% of total rope length.
The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
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Wearing a climbing helmet is an important part of keeping yourself protected at the crag, wether your climbing or belaying. A helmet will protect you from rocks falling down on you, you falling down and hitting the rock or banging your head in the overhang. When getting a helmet there are three main things to consider, helmet type, type of climbing you do and getting the right fit.
All helmets must meet industry standards for impact protection, with the standard for overhead protection being greater than the side-protection standard.
Hardshell Helmets are durable and have an extra hard outer shell usually made of ABS plastic giving them a long lifespan compared to other helmets. They feature a thin foam layer inside and a strap suspension system and are therefor sometimes called hybrid helmets or suspension helmets.
Shelled Foam Helmets are lighter and feature a thick layer of impact-absorbing polystyrene or polypropylene foam protected by a thin polycarbonate shell. This type of helmet has the advantage of being super light and having great ventilation.
hardshell helmet | shelled foam helmet | |
Mountaineering and multi-pitch trad climbing | X | |
Ice climbing | X | |
Warm-weather sport climbing | X | |
Cool-weather and single-pitch sport climbing | X | X |
Belaying | X | |
Indoor climbing | X | X |
Even when friends or reviewers suggest that one helmet is the best, it won't be right for you if it doesn't fit correctly. The best way to assess fit is to try on different helmets in a climbing specialty store.
You should retire any helmet that’s dented, cracked or damaged—that includes the straps. You should even retire your helmet if you can't see any damage but had an incident where you thought to yourself, "I would have been seriously messed up if not for my helmet."
Even if it’s never impacted, retire a helmet within 10 years. The sun’s UV rays slowly degrade materials, so if you climb frequently, cut this lifespan time in half.
The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
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Via Ferrata is an awesome sport that involves descending, ascending or climbing across a rocky surface using a system of iron ropes, steps, and fixtures. It’s a great way to experience the world of climbing in a more controlled way. It also gives you access to really interesting terrain that you might not normally be able to reach.
In general, a via ferrata set consists of two energy-absorbing lanyards that are connected and have carabiners attached to their ends. Those are the carabiners you need to secure yourself with to the iron rope and other fixtures that are attached to the mountain.
There are several kinds of harnesses out there yet the one best suited for via ferrata is the sports climbing harness. It’s a comfortable harness for most people. The only time you should consider a different harness is when carrying heavy loads, thats when you need a full-body harness.
When choosing a harness remember that it should always fit comfortably and snuggly, never too tight or too loose. The leg loops should be adjustable too.
For safety reasons the helmet cannot be missing in your set, it is not unusual for small stones to drop and you don't want them hitting your head.
Again, your helmet should fit comfortably and it should be one that has been designed specifically for climbing.
First consider that you might be wearing those gloves for a long time so make sure to choose a lightweight and breathable pair. A lot of friction is created when pushing that carabiner up and down the rope so gloves are a must if you don't want your hands to be too sore at the end of the day.
Let's start with the footwear, sneakers are not going to do the job. The mountain you will be climbing is probably uneven and steep at times so you will need to invest in some decent boots.
As for clothes it completely depends on the location your travelling too, but some lightweight breathable clothes are always good to have.
While it is not climbing gear you need to carry around you are still going to need some basics and therefor a good backpack is essential. Since a via ferrata is a one way street, there is no turning back for snacks and water, you will need to pack all of that yourself.
Finally, since you are walking around an area of sharp edges and sometimes unstable footholds a first aid kit should not be missing in your backpack. Any basic kit should do the job.
The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
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When you are out shopping for quickdraws there are several things to look out for. The three basic questions you need to ask yourself are first of all, how many quickdraws do I need? Second, ask yourself what gate opening you need/prefer. And finally you need to decide on the length of the sling. More advanced climbers know that there is a bit more to it, like carabiner size&shape or sling material&width and of course weight strength ratio.
That depends entirely on the length of the route you are climbing and wether it is quiet straight or not. Furthermore, when a guidebook lists the number of bolts on a route, that’s also your quickdraw total but you always want 1 or 2 extra just in case. And consider that if you use quickdraws to build your anchor you'll need those extra to the bolts.
average sport route (15m) | 12 quickdraws |
longer sport routes (30m) | 16-18 quickdraws |
sport routes 35m+ | 24+ quickdraws |
Routes requiring a 70m rope or longer | 12+ quickdraws |
The 3 main gate openings on quickdraws are:
- straight gate: solid straight gates that are easy to operate
- bent gate: concave gate that makes clipping a rope quick and easy
- wire gate: loop of stainless-steel wire for a gate decreasing overall weight
Also watch out for the keylock system, a system which keeps the carabiner from hooking and catching on your harness gear loop and other annoying places, by giving it a smooth notch at the point where gate and carabiner interact.
it can be found on some straight&bent gate openings. You will most likely pay a little extra for this but it's worth it.
Wire gate are always non keylock quickdraws.
Another thing climbers consider when buying quickdraws is the length of the sling. Sport climbers tend to buy pre-made slings whereas alpinists tend to compose them themselves. Short slings are light but long slings are good at reducing drag.
When the route is pretty straight it is best to use shorter slings for reduced weight, between 10-12 cm.
When the route is not traveling in a straight path and/or more than 12 quickdraws are required, climbers tend to choose a sling between 17 and 18 cm long.
In general for sports climbing it is beneficial to have a variety of lengths with you because the route might develop differently than planned.
Trad climbers usually build their own quickdraws by taking a 60cm or longer sewn sling and clipping two carabiners of choice to the sling.
Just like with quickdraws, there are certain things to consider when shopping for carbiners. Different tasks require different tools and the three main categories to consider would be the shape, gate opening and weight/strength.
Shape | Pro | Con |
D shape carabiner |
Strongest shape Larger gate opening than Oval Shape |
Smaller gate opening than Asymmetric D Heavier than Asymmetric D More expensive than Oval Shape |
Asymmetric D Carabiner |
Large gate opening Strong and light |
More expensive Not as strong as D Shape |
Pear Shape |
Large gate opening Designed for belaying and rappelling |
Heavier and more expensive than most other carabiners Not as strong as D & Asymmetric D shape |
Oval Shape |
Limits load shifting Can hold more gear than D Shape |
Not as strong as other shapes Smaller gate opening than other shapes Heavier than other shapes |
The Gate openings are the same here as they were with the quickdraws. Main categories to look out for are straight, bend or wiregate carabiners.
gate opening | pro | con |
straight |
durable and easy to use available with keylock system |
heavier than wiregate |
bent |
clipping rope is easier durable available with keylock system |
heavier than wiregate |
wire |
lightweight reduce gate lash less likely to freeze shut |
less durable than straight&bent gate |
SIZE: Carabiners exist in lots of different sizes, the bigger they are the easier it is to clip because the opening is generally bigger. Smaller carabiners have the advantage of being lighter.
Weight: Generally the lighter the carabiner the better because you want to minimise the load you have to carry up the route/mountain. But as previously mentioned, light carabiners are usually smaller and harder to handle.
Strength: Carabiners are rated for strength in three directions: lengthwise (major axis), sideways (minor axis) and while open (major axis open or "gate open").
First think about what you will be using the carabiner for. Now that you know about the technical aspects of the carabiner it is time to choose one that fits your needs. This might help:
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The choices are endless and difficult today so ideally come down to Casper's Climbing shop to get a feel for this gear and get some more advice. Also, you can contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
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Casper's Supports Your Summit
There are several different belay devices out there. We divided them up in 3 main categories, tubular, figure eight and assisted breaking.
These systems all work in a similar way, it is thanks to the friction between the device and the climbing rope that they are able to brake a fall.
These are very versatile devices and hence are suited for any kind of climbing be it trad, sport or indoor. Operating them is quiet simple, you just fold the rope, push it through and use a carabiner to either clip it to the belayer or the anchor. The friction caused between the bend rope and belay device helps slow down or stop the rope. Furthermore, when it is time to rappel, most tubular devices allow for a second strand of rope.
pro | con |
- light weight | - some people (lightweight) find rappelling really slow |
- compatible with most ropes | |
- ropes don't twist or kink | |
- rappelling on two strands |
This device is best suited for search and rescue, caving and rappelling. Shaped like an 8, they have one larger and one smaller opening. When rappelling, you feed a bight of rope through the large hole and loop it around the outside of the small hole till it rests on the "neck" of the figure 8. The small hole is clipped to your belay loop on your harness. For belaying, different ways to rig the rope through the device are recommended. Read the instructions included with your figure 8 to learn the proper way to set it up.
pro | con |
- great for rappelling | - requires more force and attention from the belayer than other devices |
- eliminates heat caused from friction | - twist the rope which can cause difficulty in the handling. |
- compatible with any rope diameter |
These, like the name suggests, are designed to lock down on the rope in case a sudden force is applied to them, thereby helping the belayer catch the fall. These devices are also sometimes called self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking devices and there are differences to be made.
For example, some devices will provide assisted breaking whether you’re belaying a lead climber, top-rope climber or a follower on a multipitch climb. Many of them use an internal camming mechanism to lock down on the rope when a climber falls. Compared to other devices they tend to be heavier and usually only work with a single line, which is why they are mainly used for sport climbing, either outdoors or indoors.
Other devices that will only assist braking for belaying one or two followers are usually tubular belay devices with an additional metal loop on the inside. This one is needed to attach the device to the anchor and set it up in assisted-braking mode. These devices have the same advantages/disadvantages than a normal tubular device while providing the possibility of belaying 1 or 2 followers in assisted braking mode. As with any belay device, assisted-braking devices require that you always use proper belay technique and have your brake hand ready to lock off the rope
pro | con |
- help stop the climbers fall | - Don’t work with all diameters of rope |
- rope feed is smooth | - heavy |
- easy to lower the climber in a controlled manner | - some only allow rappelling on a single strand |
- not recommended for use with wet or icy ropes | |
The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
Shop online.........more time to climb.
Casper's Supports Your Summit
The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
Shop online.........more time to climb.
Casper's Supports Your Summit
The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
Shop online.........more time to climb.
Casper's Supports Your Summit
The DMM Belay Master 2 is an awesome tool that we really like. First of all it is a super light carabiner with high norms. It can be used with the plastic clip on during belay work or with out it will function as a normal carabiner. During partner checks it will be easy to see if the belayer has closed the screw lock as it is only possible to clip the... The DMM Belay Master 2 is an awesome...
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