When you are out shopping for quickdraws there are several things to look out for. The three basic questions you need to ask yourself are first of all, how many quickdraws do I need? Second, ask yourself what gate opening you need/prefer. And finally you need to decide on the length of the sling. More advanced climbers k...
When you are out shopping for quickdraws there are several things to look out for. The three basic questions you need to ask yourself are first of all, how many quickdraws do I need? Second, ask yourself what gate opening you need/prefer. And finally you need to decide on the length of the sling. More advanced climbers know that there is a bit more to it, like carabiner size&shape or sling material&width and of course weight strength ratio.
That depends entirely on the length of the route you are climbing and wether it is quiet straight or not. Furthermore, when a guidebook lists the number of bolts on a route, that’s also your quickdraw total but you always want 1 or 2 extra just in case. And consider that if you use quickdraws to build your anchor you'll need those extra to the bolts.
average sport route (15m) | 12 quickdraws |
longer sport routes (30m) | 16-18 quickdraws |
sport routes 35m+ | 24+ quickdraws |
Routes requiring a 70m rope or longer | 12+ quickdraws |
The 3 main gate openings on quickdraws are:
- straight gate: solid straight gates that are easy to operate
- bent gate: concave gate that makes clipping a rope quick and easy
- wire gate: loop of stainless-steel wire for a gate decreasing overall weight
Also watch out for the keylock system, a system which keeps the carabiner from hooking and catching on your harness gear loop and other annoying places, by giving it a smooth notch at the point where gate and carabiner interact.
it can be found on some straight&bent gate openings. You will most likely pay a little extra for this but it's worth it.
Wire gate are always non keylock quickdraws.
Another thing climbers consider when buying quickdraws is the length of the sling. Sport climbers tend to buy pre-made slings whereas alpinists tend to compose them themselves. Short slings are light but long slings are good at reducing drag.
When the route is pretty straight it is best to use shorter slings for reduced weight, between 10-12 cm.
When the route is not traveling in a straight path and/or more than 12 quickdraws are required, climbers tend to choose a sling between 17 and 18 cm long.
In general for sports climbing it is beneficial to have a variety of lengths with you because the route might develop differently than planned.
Trad climbers usually build their own quickdraws by taking a 60cm or longer sewn sling and clipping two carabiners of choice to the sling.
Just like with quickdraws, there are certain things to consider when shopping for carbiners. Different tasks require different tools and the three main categories to consider would be the shape, gate opening and weight/strength.
Shape | Pro | Con |
D shape carabiner |
Strongest shape Larger gate opening than Oval Shape |
Smaller gate opening than Asymmetric D Heavier than Asymmetric D More expensive than Oval Shape |
Asymmetric D Carabiner |
Large gate opening Strong and light |
More expensive Not as strong as D Shape |
Pear Shape |
Large gate opening Designed for belaying and rappelling |
Heavier and more expensive than most other carabiners Not as strong as D & Asymmetric D shape |
Oval Shape |
Limits load shifting Can hold more gear than D Shape |
Not as strong as other shapes Smaller gate opening than other shapes Heavier than other shapes |
The Gate openings are the same here as they were with the quickdraws. Main categories to look out for are straight, bend or wiregate carabiners.
gate opening | pro | con |
straight |
durable and easy to use available with keylock system |
heavier than wiregate |
bent |
clipping rope is easier durable available with keylock system |
heavier than wiregate |
wire |
lightweight reduce gate lash less likely to freeze shut |
less durable than straight&bent gate |
SIZE: Carabiners exist in lots of different sizes, the bigger they are the easier it is to clip because the opening is generally bigger. Smaller carabiners have the advantage of being lighter.
Weight: Generally the lighter the carabiner the better because you want to minimise the load you have to carry up the route/mountain. But as previously mentioned, light carabiners are usually smaller and harder to handle.
Strength: Carabiners are rated for strength in three directions: lengthwise (major axis), sideways (minor axis) and while open (major axis open or "gate open").
First think about what you will be using the carabiner for. Now that you know about the technical aspects of the carabiner it is time to choose one that fits your needs. This might help:
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The choices are endless and difficult today so ideally come down to Casper's Climbing shop to get a feel for this gear and get some more advice. Also, you can contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
Shop online.........more time to climb.
Casper's Supports Your Summit
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The choices are endless and difficult today so contact our Customer Service or send us a mail to help you choose the right product for your needs.
Shop online.........more time to climb.
Casper's Supports Your Summit
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